Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Burger Diaries - Part 5: Eddie Rockets, South Anne Street

I may have found something close. Eddie Rockets has the charm of a late night garage and the credibility of an Irish minister, yet despite the squeaky chatter of overdressed children there's something reliable about the place. I used to work for the firm about 10 years ago as a KP in Blackrock where I first encountered a pail of stowaway maggots. I was doing the clean up, found a mop lying straggly in an abandoned blue bucket and below there lay wriggling an enthusiastic pile of larvae. Since then my esteem for the chain has been marred. Until now.

Myself and two colleagues had the foreign girl bring us our burgers. They were close nosed, but smelled wonderful. You could tell the beef was new. The bite was round, a pretty full body, though the bun was traditionally Irish and therefore traditionally fake. The first thing you notice is contrast. Meat and steel have combined through heat to create a charred, succulent explosion, savoury as you like, soft with fat, balanced by crunchy veg and a sweet, pokey relish. It was a full frontal attack, no mercy given. It finished softly, freshly, like beef should do, and strayed back for a while to remind you you'd had a burger. None of this alspice nonsense or perfumery. It was astonishing and unexpected. I don't know how it rates to the Blackrock branch 10 years ago but I can safely say there ain't no flies on this one. Baddom-ching.

Attack: Balanced, Agressive -> 3.0
Middle: Uninspiring bun but Full Bodied -> 2.7
Finish: Lasting meatiness -> 2.8


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